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The Greek Capital

Rugged inlets and sandy bays comprise the stunning blend that is the coastline of Athens. Thus at the end of an autumn day, I found myself with a not unpleasant question: where to head to relax bones still longing for a final taste of warm weather. For this city offers something that other European cities do not: a coastline of over 60 kilometers dotted with beaches many a Greek island would envy.

Out of season, the shores of Attica still have a strong appeal, as I discovered when taking a dip into a setting sun across the bay of Vouliagmeni. For those looking for revitalization in azure seas primed to turn orange pink as the sun sets, swimming off one of the Riviera’s public or private beaches does not let you down.

With ocean spray still on my skin, I sat at Sardelaki, a tavern whose Mediterranean fare is as good as the breathtaking panorama of the bay it overlooks. In a nod to times past, the meze is served on large wooden trays.

The city is as celebrated for its elevations as its shore: rising terrain within view of the Acropolis that make it a treasure trove for amblers when the weather cools. For those who want to get away from a city that sprawls across almost 200 square miles, these rocky outcrops – holders of fabulous names such as the Nymphs' Hill and the Muses' Hill – are a must.

In my opinion, this historic city is Europe’s most spiritual and sublime.

If you reach the top of Lycabettus Hill, the city’s highest point, either on foot or on the funicular rail car, the reward is a spectacular vista of the entire Argo-Saronic Gulf and the islands beyond.

If you want to stay centrally, the ancient Plaka neighborhood remains the best base. The traditional a classic hotel hotel has doubles looking on to the northern face of the Acropolis from about £120 bed and breakfast. In the same area, a popular restaurant is a favourite eatery with residents and serves the juiciest lamb cutlets. With views of the Acropolis, Athens’ rooftop restaurants are wonderfully atmospheric and ideal for mild fall nights – for a real treat visit a top restaurant or the Michelin‑starred fine dining establishment.

The Sicilian Capital

Think Neapolitan pizza is the last word in pizza? Reconsider. In Palermo they prefer sfincione, a soft, well-risen slice of dough topped with intense, onion-laden tomato sauce and topped with local cheese and herbs. Hearty, satisfying and cozy, it’s sold in shops, kiosks and stalls all over the city (Via Maqueda in the historic centre usually has several vendors).

We sample it at a kiosk on a central square, near where we’re lodging. Panineria Chiluzzo often has long queues, but they progress fast as employees dish out pieces of the pizza, as well as arancini and panelle. There are a couple of seats under the shade outside, but we eat as we stroll into town along narrow Via Alloro. This is a pleasant stroll in October but wouldn’t be so in summer. As hot spells rolled over Europe this year, temperatures in Sicily reached 104F in the shade. At the end of July one sunbaked corner hit a record 70C at ground level.

We wander the streets and savour how its rich past is written in its streets.

Now, as the climate creep to 75F by mid-afternoon, we can explore the city and savour how its heritage is visible in its roads. Passing baroque and art nouveau palaces, and Casa Stagnitta, the city’s oldest coffee roastery, we take in the unique architecture of the medieval San Cataldo Church; a main square, with its Renaissance fountain, placed under colonial times; and the impressive cathedral, constructed on the site of a ancient Islamic temple.

On the way back we take a side trip to the local market, the origins of which also date back over 1,000 years. Some criticize its touristification, but it is still noisy and brilliantly theatrical. Feeling brave, we pause for a traditional pani câ meusa, which is surprisingly OK, with its slightly sweet “meat” set off by cheese topping. The stallholder is particularly proud of his offal specialty but, unfortunately, no amount of seasoning can make those a treat for me.

We’re glad to return to quieter the old quarter, the historic district to the east, which was damaged in the second world war and declined for decades before being revitalized this era. Maison Butera (ocean-facing doubles from €161 with breakfast) is a four-room guesthouse with many attractions close by. Nearby is Palazzo Butera, a baroque baroque pile renovated and relaunched in 2021 to display the an art collection, which features works by Gilbert & George and pop art icons.

Next day we stroll a short distance to the city's gardens, with its notable multi-trunk fig tree. Birds are chirping loudly as the sun pours down. Soon we’ll be in London, the clocks will go back and the cold season will start. We enjoy a last week in the light.

Vienna

While lamenting the end of summer and hanging out at seaside spots and swimming areas on the branches of the river, I’m now seeking a different color. Vienna is a city of parks and well-kept lawns, grassy areas and forest zones, which exchange their green canopy for a golden and ochre glow the locals call Goldener Herbst.

I leave behind the impressive buildings and old streets of the downtown. To the southwest of it, Schloss Schönbrunn Park splays from the magnificent Habsburg summer residence, where the gold isn’t limited for the inside, and leads into pathways of towering copper bushes and curved walkways that lead to the bright building.

To the eastern part, in the city’s Prater Park, I walk beneath the shady trees of the main avenue, an avenue that’s almost five kilometers long and centuries-old. On the border of the park, the vintage-designed Superbude Prater hotel (doubles from €78 with breakfast) is a ideally located getaway.

In a city with many city gardens (thanks to a long-standing commitment to encouraging green spaces and building community spirit), autumn brings a abundance of seasonal ingredients on restaurant offerings. Squash soup is the seasonal staple – best eaten in a traditional pub such as the decorated Am Nordpol 3 – and followed with a breaded cutlet.

Vienna is a place of green areas and gardens that change their emerald halo for a golden and ochre glow.

Little known, Vienna is the only continental city to grow wine within its city limits, with 700 hectares of grape fields. There are fourteen official city hiking trails, known as walking routes. Track 1 takes you through the wine country of Nussdorf. Relax in a hillside wine tavern such as a local winery, sipping a zesty grüner veltliner with a platter (a platter of cold cuts and cheese), while enjoying the beautiful urban view.

The days are getting shorter, but now is the ideal moment to stroll among Vienna’s stately palaces, galleries and historic abodes – a {cultural crop|